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Friday, February 6, 2009


(Sambungan)
Seterusnya mari kita lihat gambaran Melayu dahulu sebagaimana yang dilukis oleh seorang pengembara wanita Inggeris yang telah mengembara di banyak tempat di dunia ( Jepun, Cina, Vietnam, Australia, New Zealand, dan Hawai). Pada tahun 1879 (130 tahun dahulu) Isabella L. Bird mengembara di negeri-negeri Melayu dengan misalnya menaiki perahu di Sungai Linggi, dan menunggang gajah ke Kuala Kangsar, pada usia 47 tahun. Daya pengecamannya yang tajam , dan pandangannya yang kritis diterbitkan dalam bukunya, The Golden Chersonese: Travels in Malaya in 1879, K.L: Oxford in Asia Paperback, 1967. Antara lain katanya:
"The Malays proper inhabit the Malay Peninsula, and almost all the coast regions of Borneo dan Sumatra. They all speak more or less purely the Malay language; they all write in the Arabic character. Their colour is a lightish , olive tinted, reddish brown. Their hair is invariably black, straight, and coarse, and their faces and bodies are nearly hairless. They have broad and slightly flat faces, with high cheek bones, wide mouths , with broad and shapely lips, well formed chins, low foreheads , black eyes, oblique , but not nearly so much so as those of the Chinese, and smallish noses , with broad and very open nostrils. They vary little in their height, which is below that of average European. Their frames are lithe and robust , their chests are broad , their hands are small and are refined , and their feet are thick and short. The man are not handsome , and the women are decidedly ugly. Both sexes look old very early.The Malays undoubtedly must be numbered among civilised peoples. They live in houses which are more or less tasteful and secluded. They are well clothed in garments of both native and foreign manufacture ; they are a settled and agricultural people; they are skillful in some of the arts, specially in the working of gold and damascening of krises ; the upper classes are to some extent educated ; they have a literature, even though it be an imported one, and they have possessed for centuries systems of government and codes of land and maritime laws which in theory at least, show a considerable degree of enlightenment.Their religion, laws , customs, and morals are bound up together. They arer strict Mussulmen [Muslims. BZ ], but among the uneducated especially they mix up their own traditons and superstitions with the Koran. The pilgrimage to Mecca is the universal object of Malay ambition..." (Hal. 17-18.)
Isabella Bird nampaknya bukan pengembara pelancong yang hanya teruja melihat hutan hujan tropika yang kaya menghijau, persekitaran yang lembab dan panas, dan muka serta tubuh badan manusia Melayu, tetapi lebih luas ke alam budaya dan kepercayaan serta sejarahnya. Diamerenung ke dalam ruang pentas hidup yang lebih lebar; kepada kesenian dan kemahiran pertukangan, kesusasteraan, bahasa dan aksara (huruf), norma dan undang-undang yang mengatur tamadun Melayu. Diakuinya bahawa , " ... they have possessed for centuries systems of government and codes of land and maritime laws...". Ini bererti sudah berabad-abad lamanya kedaulatan kerajaan Melayu itu terbentuk terbentuk sebagai satu sistem pemerintahan yang berkuasa dan sah sebelum dia mencecahkan kakinya ke bumi Semenanjung Tanah Melayu.Isabella Bird nampaknya telah mengkaji sejarah dan budaya negeri-negeri Melayu untuk memaknakan pengembaraannya, dan mencatatkannya untuk kita menginsafi makna diri setelah lebih satu abad kemudian.

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